What Is the Difference Between Retinol and Retinal? Product Review: The Ordinary's New Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum
I'm sensitive! Should I use retinol or retinal?
There’s been a slew of skincare innovation over the past year with what seems like a gazillion new products to target skin barrier health.
The uber popular skincare brand The Ordinary has led a lot of the innovation after a period of stagnation. Until recently the brand hadn’t introduced anything that wowed me in ages.
But 2023 was a breakthrough year for The Ordinary.
Over the past 12 months, The Ordinary has introduced Soothing & Barrier Support Serum, several new skin type-specific facial moisturizers, and even revamped two product icons – the Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and Multi-Peptide + HA Serum, formerly known as “Buffet”.
The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum is their latest innovation and first introduction of a face serum with Retinaldehyde, a more potent retinoid than Retinol. Retinaldehyde, also known as Retinal (see that A?), is even more effective at treating multiple signs of aging than Retinol.
More on The Ordinary’s new anti-aging face serum below…
There are a select few brands that I think do a great job of addressing skin barrier health specifically – and putting that at the center of their brand identity. No brand does that more solidly than Skinfix. The whole concept of the skin barrier is core to the brand’s entire positioning and in all product messaging.
Of course, Paula’s Choice is among the elite skincare brands that offer products that are so well made, they can’t help but strengthen and optimize your skin barrier. But the brand doesn’t focus on skin barrier health as much as it does on key active ingredients and product innovation that support a healthy barrier.
And while The Ordinary’s marketing is similarly aligned but at more accessible pricing, the brand has been targeting barrier health with their latest innovations. The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum as well as the new Natural Moisturizing Factors + Phytoceramides are both barrier essentials that help to easily and affordably up your skin health game.
But nothing the brand has offered to date can move the needle more than The Ordinary’s new Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum…
What is the difference between retinol and retinal?
Both Retinal and Retinol are retinoids, molecular derivatives of Vitamin A, that share structural and functional similarities. The easily confused retinoids are among the most effective anti-aging actives used in topical skincare with broad benefits for skin health and the youthful appearance of the skin.
However, the two molecules differ in their potency and conversion process:
Retinol is the main form of vitamin A and is actually converted into Retinaldehyde (aka Retinal) when absorbed. Retinaldehyde is then further converted to Retinoic Acid, the most bioactive form of vitamin A. Retinol is considered weaker than Retinaldehyde due to its two-step conversion process to become Retinoic Acid.
Retinaldehyde is the natural precursor of Retinoic Acid and is the closest to a prescription-strength retinoid available OTC. It requires only one conversion to become Retinoic Acid in the skin, making it more potent than Retinol with quicker results. Due to its potency and direct conversion to Retinoic Acid, Retinal is generally considered more irritating and not a great option for sensitive skins or Retinol beginners.
Explore my top picks of the best Retinol creams and Retinal serums on the blog here.
Sources: Paula’s Choice: Retinaldehyde in Skincare; Naturium: Retinol vs Retinal: What's the Difference?
Product Review
The first thing that stood out to me when I first tried The Ordinary’s Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum was how unique and elegant the texture is. I think I was expecting something lighter, with more of a serum-like quality. But the product is actually an emulsion.
What is an emulsion? Well, in terms of texture, emulsions are usually less dense than creams and lotions; they’re more lightweight and watery. Emulsions also tend to be less sticky, which allows them to blend better with makeup and absorb faster, with less potential to clog pores.
Because they’re less comedogenic, emulsions can be a better option for those with acne-prone skin. Retinoids are great for treating acne and I would bet that The Ordinary had acne-prone skins in mind when formulating their new Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum.
The second and perhaps most important point is that The Ordinary’s new Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum is not for beginners – or for those with sensitive skin.
In fact, the Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum is the brand’s most potent retinoid – more potent than its best-selling Retinol 1% in Squalane and Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane serums.
As I said above, Retinaldehyde, or Retinal, is more potent than Retinol due to its quicker conversion to Retinoic Acid in the skin. That speedier process means that it’s also more sensitizing.
Formulated with 0.2% Retinaldehyde, The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum is a potent product.
Fortunately, my skin is well-acclimated to retinoids and over the period that I put The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum to the test, I saw no irritation. It worked great for me.
Since it’s an “Ordinary” product, there isn’t much else going on in the formula that’s particularly notable. In addition to Retinal, there are a few additional antioxidants, though they’re at low levels and relatively insignificant. Again, it’s “Ordinary”.
For calming irritation, there’s also some Bisabolol, the active form of chamomile, which helps soothe the skin. But it, too, is at a very low level and won’t help much. If you need skin-soothing in order to use a more potent retinoid, this may not be for you.
The Ordinary makes that clear:
“The serum-textured formula is suitable for all skin types, and is recommended for experienced users of retinoids. If you are new to using retinoids, we recommend exploring the Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion, or the Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, and progressing to higher strengths as your skin builds tolerance.”
At just about $15 (15 mL / 0.5 oz.), The Ordinary’s Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum is certainly reasonably priced for the latest retinoid innovation. It does what you hire it to do: aggressively fight multiple signs of aging. If you’re an experienced Retinol user, give it a try.
Pros & Cons
What I like about it: The Ordinary’s Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum is the most potent of the brand’s existing retinoid serums. The texture is really nice – lightweight, easily layered and quickly absorbed by the skin. It’s also just about $15.
What I don’t like about it: It’s only 15 mL or 0.5 oz. – half the size of the brand’s other retinoid serums, which is somewhat deceiving. Using it 3-4x per week, I used my first one up within 14 days.
Who it’s for: All skin types.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Serum for $14.90 here.